Unlike everything we’ve been taught about the Mosel, the Upper Mosel has nothing to do with Riesling and nothing to do with slate. Instead, we find limestone. The Upper Mosel in fact represents the beginning of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre. In the Upper Mosel we find a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s oldest grapes: Elbling.
Elbling is not a grape of “greatness” as much as it is a grape of refreshment, honestly and conviviality. The joy of Elbling is the uncompromising vigor and energy, the raucous and super-chalky acidity. Hild takes everything at his own pace and on his own terms. This strength of character likely explains some of how he has survived in the Upper Mosel making quality-minded, honest wines in a region where this is not a financially wise thing to do. This is an act of cultural preservation more than anything else. Matthias Hild farms about five hectares in the sleepy town of Wincherin.